Als je haar maar goed zit*

Picture of my new haircutA few days ago I was getting pretty tired of my long hair and now that the temperatures are soaring into the high 20′s, I figured it was well time to get the yearly pre-Summer chop. I decided to go boldly into the unknown and walked into the little hairdressing salon that is just around the corner from my apartment building’s entrance. I like the look of the place, and it has two small dogs. One black, and one white; they sleep in the bucket of hair that is always just outside the door of the salon, which I somehow find very touching (guess I’m getting sentimental in my old age ;-) ).

Unfortunately, I don’t really speak any hair related Chinese, but I brought along my trusty little Mandarin phrasebook and together with hand gestures I think I did pretty well. The guy did cut off a bit more than I had originally intended, but oh well, the result is not bad and the guy was having so much fun making something out of my boring hair that I didn’t want to interrupt him. It’s funny, it’s really just a very tiny hairdressing salon, and the haircut only cost me 15 RMB (a little under 2 euros), but he was very serious about it, even using two massive hairdryers at the same time at some point. He actually cut my hair in a very fashionable asymmetrical style that looks pretty cool if you spend about half an hour styling it. Which I don’t, but it still looks okay when one only spends 5 minutes on it, and that’s what counts!

So far I have received only compliments from the people around me. The girls at the office and some of my female students welcomed me with screams of piaoliang (pretty) and ke’ai (cute) this morning, so I guess that’s a good sign. None of the guys seem to have noticed anything different about me though, so I guess men are just the same all around the world…

 

* Als je haar maar goed zit = Dutch phrase that literally means “as long as your hair looks okay”, often used when people are about to embark on a scary adventure (of any kind) and suggesting everything will be fine, as long as you make sure your hair looks okay.
Posted in daily life | Tagged | 16 Comments

Unexpected challenges, part II: Chocolate cheese

Chocolate cheeseIf people ask me what I miss the most from the Netherlands, it’s not difficult to come up with an answer: Cheese. Traditionally, the Chinese don’t really eat or drink any dairy products, and whereas it has now seems to have become all the rage to drink milk (for its supposed health benefits), it is still very difficult to get your hands on any dairy products that taste like they do at home. Most of the milk sold here is of the kind that never goes off, which I always find a bit suspicious. Food is supposed to go off at some point, otherwise it’s not really food, but probably just chemicals.

The cheese available in supermarkets here is either a really expensive import (from either New Zealand or the Netherlands, interestingly enough), or the Chinese made brands. I bought one of the Chinese brands the other day to give it a go and picked one that had a cute little piggy on the packaging (you have to make your choices based on something if you can’t read the text on the packaging, and level of cuteness seems like as good a decisive factor as any). You can imagine my surprise though when I opened the package and found brown cheese. Brown cheese?! After tasting it I decided it was actually chocolate-flavoured cheese, which was later confirmed by a friend who can read Chinese and read the packaging for me. It didn’t actually taste that bad on toast (a bit like Nutella), but it was very far from the cheese I was expecting!

Posted in food, unexpected challenges | 2 Comments

Three months in China

Hard as it is to believe, it has now been three months since I came to Yantai. Time has really flown by, and so far I am really enjoying myself and I don’t want to go home yet! So far I have not yet experienced any big signs of culture shock, but then again, the first couple of months are the “Honeymoon Period” anyway, in which everything is still new and exciting, and the reality of living in another country hasn’t quite hit you yet.

If I think about the things I had to get used to here in China though, a few things spring to mind. First of all, I have become completely desensitized to fireworks. Fireworks are no longer something special that you can only see once a year and when you see them you have to watch them and ooh and ahhh. This is a highly impractical thing to do in China, where fireworks are set off pretty much every day. I have been told that Chinese people use fireworks to scare away evil spirits that can threaten any type of new venture. So when a new store opens, there are fireworks. If there’s a weddding, there are fireworks. If a seaside restaurant reopens after the winter, there are fireworks. If you would have to stand still and appreciate the beauty of fireworks whenever you see them in China, you’d never have time to do anything else. So now, when I come across fireworks, I do as the Chinese do: just walk around it and continue with whatever I was doing. Half the time I don’t even hear it anymore, unless they’re really close to me. In fact, I think I have adjusted so much to the sound of firecrackers, World War III could start and I wouldn’t even notice, I’d probably shrug it off as just another wedding.

Another thing that’s decidedly different here is spatial awareness. People stand much closer to me on buses and in the elevator than they would back home. Also, people don’t really watch where they are going. It’s like they don’t really care about what goes on around them. Or maybe we are just a little paranoid about other people around us? It’s especially obvious when I’m in the supermarket. People don’t look, they just push their shopping cart in whatever direction they please. Collisions happen all the time, of course, but nobody seems to care. I have learned to stop saying sorry whenever someone walks into me, there’s no point, as it happens so often! And why do we say sorry when someone else bumps into us anyway? Such a strange habit…

Lastly, I have completely stopped doing any long term planning. Mind you, I don’t even have an agenda anymore, which is an enormous change for the average Dutch person. People here don’t really seem to plan ahead that far. If there is a change in the teaching schedule at the school, they will tell you two days in advance (if you’re lucky). If a lesson is cancelled, usually they will tell you about twenty minutes after the lesson was supposed to start. If you’re meeting up with a Chinese friend, they will pretty much always say, “let’s meet tomorrow”. And while I am getting more spontaneous about these things, it is hard to shake off a life time habit of “I might have time for you in about three weeks”. Of course, I am also a lot less busy than I ever was in the Netherlands, so I do have the opportunity to be spontaneous, and I don’t need an agenda. I just don’t have to remember that many things for a long period of time that I would need to write them down. But I do wonder, is it just the fact that I am less busy here and don’t know as many people as I do in the Netherlands, or do people really just don’t do any long term planning and are more capable of spontaneity?

One thing I have not yet adapted to though is the clothing style, but I think that might be a good thing… I will probably write a whole blog entry about this some time, but for now, suffice it to say that people have a different idea about which colours go together, whether you should mix different animal prints or not, and the amount of bling that is acceptable per item of clothing. If I come home next year wearing a bright pink leopard print t-shirt and yellow pants with a hundred shiny little studs on them, complimented by a purple hoodie with Hello Kitty on it, and bear ears on the hood, I blame China!

Posted in culture shock | 2 Comments

I want to ride my bicycle

My Chinese bikeLast week I bought a bicycle. I’ve seen a lot of people cycling here and though nobody really seems to be doing it for the exercise (just to get from one point to another), at least a person on a bike is not such a strange sight. I bought the bike brand new at a shop close to the school, and paid only 350 yuan for it (44 euros). It seems to be a pretty good bike, though I suppose time will tell!

The word for “bicycle” in Chinese is actually quite interesting. It is called a zìxíngchē, and exists of three characters. The first, zì (自), means “self”. The second, xíng (行), means “go, walk, travel”. The last one, chē (车), is a general word for “vehicle”. So the literal translation of the Chinese word is “a self-going vehicle”, i.e. a vehicle that you have to make go yourself. Kind of cool, I think!

Riding a bicycle is quite an adventure in China. You have to pay quite a bit of attention to the road as there can be some really big holes in it. Plus the drivers are a little crazy here. The good thing is that they’re used to people cycling or walking on the roads, so generally they do keep an eye out for slower traffic on the road, but it happens quite regularly that they swerve around you in a manner that takes some getting used to (i.e. it takes some time before you stop shitting yourself). Still, it’s actually kind of fun, having to avoid people, carts and potholes, and trying not to get run over. It’s kind of like a computer game, really.

As bike theft is apparantly quite common here, my boss advised me to keep my bike safe in my apartment, which I thought was a bit strange at first. There isn’t really any other place though  where I can park my bike without the risk of it being stolen, so when I’m not riding my bike I keep it inside. Everytime I go for a ride I have to bring the bike down in the elevator and back up when I come back. It felt a bit odd at first, but nobody batted an eyelid when I entered the elevator with my bike, so I guess it’s normal practice here. Some people even bring their scooter into their apartment!

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

50 Days of Chinese

Fifty Days of ChineseToday marks the 50th day of my “Chinese Everyday” language learning plan. The plan is quite simple: I have to study Chinese every single day. Sometimes I study a few hours, sometimes I just look at some flashcards or look through the food section of my phrase book to pick up some new food characters, but whether it’s a large or tiny effort: every day is key. I must admit I’m actually quite proud of myself that I’ve made it this far! I start new crazy projects like this all the time, but they usually peter out within a few days, so this is something new. Having a lot of time and being able to practice some things immediately helps though!

I’m trying to watch some Chinese television every day, hoping it will magically make me pick up a lot of Chinese. There are people out there claiming that if you just surround yourself with a language 24/7, you will pick it up at some point, though I don’t think that’s a particularly efficient approach. It has helped me with learning the characters and pronunciation though, as Chinese soap operas are usually subtitled (in Chinese! Not in English). Sometimes I will recognize a character, which doesn’t help much at the moment with understanding what is being said, but it does help a lot with the memorization of characters. Plus it’s fun to watch as you can follow along quite well without knowing any Chinese. They’re so dramatic there’s no need for knowing Chinese to be able to follow the general storyline!

Apart from watching television, I’ve also been employing some more efficient methods. The main bulk of my Chinese learning happens through www.ChineseClass101.com, a website where you can listen to 10-15 minute podcasts, teaching you useful phrases, vocabulary and grammar. I find it very effective, and it’s easy to set aside half an hour to listen to a fun podcast and study the vocab and grammer included in it.

I’m also making a lot of use of Anki, an intelligent flashcard system, making use of SRS (Spaced Repetition Software). This basically means it will remember how hard it was for you to recall the answer for a certain flashcard and will plan its repetition accordingly. Flashcards that were difficult will be practiced again the next day, whereas easy ones will be planned a few days hence, with the interval inbetween increasing every time you practice the flashcard. It’s a great system, which works best if you go through the flashcards every day.

Anyway, so what is the result of 50 days of Chinese? Well, to give you a bit of an idea, at the moment I am at about 600 words and 50 characters, which is not an awful lot, but it’s a good start. Learning a language is not about learning lots of words though, so for the next 50 days I will be working on actually communicating with people. I want to focus more on pronunciation to make it easier to understand what people are saying to me, and making them understand what I am saying. I also want to learn more food characters, as reading a menu remains a problem. According to Benny at Fluent in Three Months (who is my hero and inspiration, by the way), one needs a specific goal to make it easier to be motivated to learn a language. One also needs to make the goal public to increase motivation even more. So this is my goal for the next 50 days of Chinese:

  • get to 1000 words and 100 characters
  • go to a restaurant without a picture menu and come out alive
  • speak Chinese at the supermarket, bakery and post office
  • write a 500 word text in Chinese
  • and the scariest one: start speaking Chinese to Chinese people so I can practice conversational skills. If I know how to say something in Chinese, I am no longer allowed to say it in English or use my hands. I’m really going to have to be more strict to myself on this one!

I will post again on day 100 to let you know my progress. And to make sure I will do everything to achieve my goals, I promise I shall eat stinky tofu if I don’t reach the goals above. And I really don’t want to eat stinky tofu. It’s a shame you cannot post any smells online, otherwise I would be able to let you experience the crazy stinkiness that is stinky tofu. Trust me, you don’t want to go anywhere near it!

Posted in Putonghua | 8 Comments

Food in China, part I

One of the most frequently asked questions I get is “what do you eat in China?”. And another one is “don’t you get tired of eating Chinese food every day?”. The answer to the latter question is very easy: No, I don’t. The first question is a bit more difficult to answer. The thing is, the variety of Chinese food that is available here is so enormous, no one could ever get tired of it. I have always known the Chinese food you can get back home is only a tiny sliver of what is available in China, but I never imagined how tiny! Eating out is big business in China and there are probably ab0ut 50 places – if not more, I’m terrible at estimating numbers – where you can eat within a 15 minute walk of my apartment. And that’s only a small part of a suburb of the city of Yantai, imagine how many food places there are in all of Yantai, or, if you dare, Shandong Province! I’m not even going to ask you to imagine the amount of food available in all of China, as I think that is way beyond anyone’s imagination, no matter how wild!

So what does one eat in Yantai? First of all, there are many Chinese restaurants, serving food from all regions of China. That alone would keep anyone busy trying out new foods for years. But, due to Shandong’s proximity to South Korea (it’s just across the Yellow Sea, Seoul is a one hour flight), there are also many Korean restaurants. It’s perhaps a bit embarrassing, but I must admit that this was one of the minor reasons why I chose to come to Yantai in the first place. Then there are some Japanese restaurants, and even some Western places. Of course, there is KFC and McDonald’s, but there are also a couple of proper restaurants where you can get a decent pizza or a schnitzel with fries. All in all, you could spend all your time having breakfast, lunch and dinner in different restaurants and you probably still wouldn’t have been to all the food places in Yantai.

Some examples:

Noodles with cucumber and peanut sauce, spicy tofu and sweet and sour pork. This is at one of my favourite places that’s near the school. It’s a very simple little restaurant, but the food is great. We go there at least once a week.

 

 

Another favourite… Korean style lunch! This is a typical Korean lunch, where you order a few main dishes (in the picture you see oxtail soup, kimbap ( = the Korean take on sushi), grilled pork, and a salad) and you get a lot of little banchans (side dishes), mostly kimchi and sauteed vegetables.

 

This is a lunch I had with a Chinese friend, Ted. He took me to a local eatery (more like a cafetaria than a restaurant, but great quality food), where we got some sauteed spinach, baozi (steamed buns with a filling – we had seaweed and pork filling this time), soup and the infamous 1000-Year-Old-Eggs. The eggs look (and smell!) a lot scarier than they taste, I was actually a little disappointed by their blandness. They just taste like regular eggs, but a bit saltier, and I didn’t particularly care for the jelly-like texture. Still, I can cross them off my list now, so that counts for something, I guess!

A bit of a scarier one… Snake soup! This was actually accidental. Simone and I went to a restaurant where they had a picture menu (as neither of us can read a written menu at the moment) and I pointed at a picture I thought looked like a nice spicy soup. When it arrived it turned out to contain snake meat though, including two little snake heads floating around in the soup. I figured I might as well try it now that I ordered it… Snake meat doesn’t really taste like anything, actually. It has the texture and a bit of the flavour of white fish, but it’s not particularly exciting. The soup was good though. And I guess it was a good reminder that it’s time to get cracking on learning the characters for foods!

Posted in food | 4 Comments

Having a day off, Chinese style

This week (April 4th) it’s Tomb Sweeping Day, a traditional Chinese festival for which we’re all getting a day off. Many schools and employers actually give their students/employees three days off, or so it seems… They do get Monday and Tuesday off, but to compensate the kids are going to school on Saturday and Sunday. This means that the week before they have three days off, they actually have to go to school seven days in a row! It’s the same for people with jobs. So they really only have one day off, and will probably need this day to recover from having to work seven days in a row… Mind you, one of my young students told me today that they actually get a lot of extra homework as well, as they have three days off and supposedly will have all the time in the world to make homework, according to the teachers at their middle school.

One of my adult students told me that it’s the Chinese government that has come up with this 3 days off deal. The holiday is originally only one day, but as the Chinese government wants people to be able to visit family or have a short holiday (and spend a lot of money, good for the economy!), they decided to make it a three day holiday. However, as they didn’t want to give people just two extra days off for free, they decided to just rearrange the working days for everyone. Apparently, the same thing will happen in the Fall, when there will be a three day holiday, but people will actually have seven days off in a row. They will need to work two weekends to  make up for that though, which means they will actually need to work fourteen days in a row before getting those 7 days off!

As for me, at my school they’re just giving us the day off on Tomb Sweeping Day itself.  The classes we have on that particular Wednesday are actually moved to Monday though (our regular day off). So I still teach the same amount of hours and days, just on a different day than usual, though my boss still insists on calling it a day off. I just call it a “day off”. I don’t mind so much as I already kind of enjoy having my regular schedule mixed up a bit, even without an extra day off, but it is a little mind-boggling. Obviously the Chinese have a whole different idea about what constitutes a day off than Westerners do, and I must admit I’m a bit in awe that they take this whole working-seven-days-in-a-row business so well. I’ve asked my adult students what they think about it, and they basically just shrugged it off. All hell would break loose if someone tried that in the Netherlands, I’m sure!

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Hello sunshine

Temperatures have been steadily rising here in Yantai, and we’re getting a lot of sunshine this week. Perfect weather for a day out! Yesterday I went to downtown Yantai with two of my fellow teachers to check out the Yantai Hill Park. Well, that was the plan, but we never actually made it into the park. We didn’t know exactly where it was, so we spent quite some time walking around trying to find the entrance, but it was so enjoyable that we continued walking around even after we found the park. :D Yantai Hill Park (Yāntáishān Gōngyuán) is located in the part of town that has quite a few old colonial buildings and it’s a nice area to spend a few hours strolling around and enjoying the atmosphere. It’s also near the boulevard that stretches along the seaside, offering a nice view. All in all, it was a good way of spending the first real warm and sunny day here in Yantai!

Before we went downtown I had another little adventure as I had to go buy a new phone. I had accidentally plugged my phone into my Nook charger (they look very similar), resulting in the complete destruction of the phone’s charger plugin. As it was an old phone anyway I figured I’d just buy a cheap new phone that I can just use while I’m here in China. So, off I went to the Zhenhua E-Mart down the street with a mission not to leave the building without a phone. Fortunately, it was actually really easy to buy a phone, even with my limited Chinese (and I’m quite proud I understood what the sales girl said when she said they didn’t have the phone I wanted and offered another similar one, and that I had to make sure to keep the guarantee papers safe). It didn’t get difficult until after I had bought the phone, when the sales girl pulled out a rather large loaf of bread from under the counter and said a lot of things in Chinese that I didn’t understand. I still don’t know what exactly happened there, maybe she was trying to sell me the loaf of bread?! A bit odd in an electrical store… I guess it’s just another WTF moment in China. :D

Posted in Uncategorized | 8 Comments

Long time no see

An interesting fact I learned a few days ago is that the popular phrase “long time no see” actually comes from Chinese. In Mandarin, the phrase is hǎo jiǔ bù jiān, which literally translates to that particular phrase in English. Apparently it was used by Chinese immigrants who literally translated the Chinese to English, resulting in the grammatically incorrect “long time no see”. Despite its incorrectness, it was picked up by other English speakers and became so popular it has become a fixture in the English language. As with most language facts there is some discussion as to whether this is actually the true origin of the phrase (see also the Wikipedia entry), but I like the idea of it coming from Chinese immigrants, so I’m just going to assume it’s true. :D

Anyway. So I try to write an entry here every week, but sometimes that doesn’t really work out, obviously. Last week I wasn’t feeling well, so that’s my excuse! I had the flu first, and then got hit by a stomach bug, which I will spare you the details of. I’ve been having a lot of colds here (I blame the children bringing in Chinese germs my body is not used to), but the stomach bug was a bit of a surprise as I had been handling the food here quite well. Ah well, maybe it was just one street food adventure that got the best of me. :D

One, more exciting, thing that happened though last week was that I actually understood some spoken Chinese. I was in the elevator in my apartment building, going up to my floor, when a Chinese lady told her small child that I was not a Chinese person, but a foreigner. I had just learned the word for foreigner, so it was a bit of a coincidence that I understood exactly what she was saying, but it was the highlight of my day. I don’t have any illusions about speaking fluent Chinese now, but it was a very rewarding experience to understand something. It doesn’t happen very often!

Not much else has been going on… The weather seems to be getting a bit better here, which basically means it’s no longer freezing. Hopefully we’ll get proper Spring soon!

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

The staring

There is one thing I was rather apprehensive about before coming to China to live in a city where a foreigner is still an anomaly: the staring. When I was in India last year the amount of people staring at me drove me crazy, so I was worried it’d be the same here in China (I could obviously never be a celebrity!).

People in Yantai have seen foreigners before, but it’s not like this is Beijing or Shanghai, where foreigners have become more or less part of daily life (or so I’ve heard). I suppose here in Yantai it’s still kind of special to see a foreigner on the streets, so people do stare a bit sometimes. I don’t find it as annoying as I was expecting though, so that’s a relief! People don’t really do anything but staring. Some of them might do a double take as I walk by, and some might yell “hello!”, but that happens maybe once every two weeks. Not *all* the time, like they did in India, and they don’t want to constantly take pictures of me either or try to sell me stuff, so it’s not a problem at all.

Mind you, the staring is actually a lot worse when I’m out and about with my fellow teacher Simone, who has dark skin and dreadlocks. She’s much more of an event than I am, I’m just a boring white person, which suits me fine. :D

Having said that, being a boring white person is one thing, a running white person is apparently a lot more exciting. Yesterday morning I went for a short run along the beach and some cars would actually slow down beside me to have a good look at the running foreigner, which I thought was rather funny. I was too out of breath to really care anyway! A word of warning to my former colleagues in Tilburg though: I was wearing my Tilburg University hoodie, so you will have to mentally prepare yourselves for a big inflow of students from the general Yantai area next year!

Posted in Uncategorized | 4 Comments